Making Your Own Sausages

Posted on May 16th, 2011 in General News

One of the best compliments I’ve received is to have been described in a magazine article as the Heston Blumenthal of sausage-making.

To me, the sausage is far from a humble accompaniment to eggs and bacon on your breakfast plate but rather an exciting and versatile gourmet food for all seasons. Sausage-making is not rocket science, but two things count above all and that’s using traceable pork from a trusted and reliable supplier and thinking a little outside the box. I began my career working alongside my father in the family butchery business. I then branched out on my own, opening several high street butchers and freezer centres. However, my dream was always to be a chef and I opened my first catering business, The Fence Gate Inn, in 1982.

The difference between my sausages, which are served in the brasseries and sold through Berkins Deli, and those you will buy from a butcher is that if it says leeks on the box, leeks is what you will get and what we use – chopped, washed leeks sautéed off in butter and seasoned to taste – not leek flavouring, powders or freeze dried chips or flakes. What I say is that you’ll notice the difference. I maintain that you get out what you put in so never cut corners.

I have been winning awards for my sausages for many years now. I received the title of ‘Supreme Champion’ at the Butchers Hall, Smithfield, London. The competition had five entry categories – best plain pork sausage, best speciality sausage, most innovative sausage, national pub sausage producer and best large manufacturer sausage. I was placed first in the most innovative and also, in the best speciality sausage categories, and was second in the plain pork.

My innovative sausage was a pork sausage with limoncello, lemon thyme and lemon zest. It’s a real barbecue sausage. My speciality sausage was pork, chilli chorizo and garlic. We currently make 20 varieties of sausage. Among the brasserie favourites are a combo starter of chipolata sausages served with two dips – a mustard and apple puree dip and a garlic mayonnaise dip – and a lamb sausage that is served alongside a ramakin-sized portion of shepherd’s pie and a noisette of lamb.

Other popular varieties include the Connoisseur, which is pork mixed with apples poached in calvados extended with cider with a hint of fresh thyme and honey. There’s also the Toulouse, which is a predominantly red wine, garlic and parsley blend. It’s excellent in a bean cassoulet. One of my personal favourites is a Drambuie and marmalade sausage, which is served with a rich red wine onion gravy. Another is our Haggis sausage which is pork with ‘neeps’ sautéed in whisky. At the last minute, haggis is crumbled into the blend by hand. We serve this sausage with mashed tatties and a soft pink peppercorn whisky cream sauce.

We also make our own black puddings. I use thyme scented black pudding nuggets in a pork based sausage with partridge. We are constantly pushing boundaries but it’s important to remember that all ingredients need to be used in moderation.

We use hydraulic filling machines due to the quantities we produce but you can buy hand fillers that clamp on to a bench so it’s not expensive to begin sausage-making. I am planning to host a sausage-making course for chefs and the public at The Eagle this year, as well as to launch a gourmet sausage club. Sausages will always be a favourite food.

For further information on Kevin’s sausage-making course, sausage appreciation club and for web sales of his sausages, log on to www.berkins.co.uk.